The most Southwestern county in Missouri was once a thriving tourist destination. When accidentally left out of the yearly Family Vacationland map published by the Missouri State Highway Commission, residents were rightly enraged. What to do? No, not incest. They formed the McDonald Territory, complete with its own postage stamps and militia, to make sure you enjoyed the Hell out of your visit.
[McDonald Territory on Wikipedia]
Through most of the Territory's original firebrands have likely died of cirrhosis and accidental gunshot wounds, much of the original roadside appeal remains. The main artery within this throbbing heart of Ozark tourism is Missouri 59, a 13-mile ribbon of pavement that winds its way from the Arkansas border up to Anderson, Missouri.
[Missouri 59 route on Google Maps]
The first sight for a Northbound traveler is Stateline Liquor, a rock-clad station adorned with a kitschy send-up of Li'l Abner. Hyar' tis, y'all. Frighteningly, the half-done overalls and jug of moonshine are fairly representative of a few contemporary locals.
Closer to Noel, MO, are some fine examples of mid-century motor inns like the Starlight Motel and Bell-Aire. When photographing the latter, three grizzled men in flannel exited the office and were very concerned that I was taking pictures of their quaint motel. After a brief exchange of grunts and musket fire, I made a hasty retreat. But hey, there's no need to stick around when there's so much more rustic charm to enjoy.
Indian Creek Roadside Park features Flintstone-esq native stone tables perfect for lunching on a dinosaur sandwich. There you can also read a historical marker describing the county's legacy of "bitter dispute" and clashes with U.S. Marshalls, "slickers," and Northern aggressors. Sadly, the scrappy pro-Southern county was unable to reverse the tide in the War of Between the States. You can see in the picture where a local rebel spray-painted his displeasure with the outcome. Can't win 'em all.
Still, I have to be fair. This section of Missouri 59 is a beautiful drive lined with curiosities, relics, and in-your-face scenery. At points, the highway is sandwiched between the Elk River and rock bluffs that hang low over the highway, one of the most brilliant sights in the Ozarks. While small towns like Noel and Lanagan are hard-luck shadows of a forgotten tourist trade, they maintain a character lost elsewhere. Few chain stores have invaded, leaving the existing developments occupied by an odd mix of homespun rural and Hispanic businesses. Even the old-fashioned wooden posts remain at the road's edge instead of dull steel guardrails. Missouri 59 is curvy, scenic, unique, and a bit retrograde, which makes it 100% Ozarkbahn.
Traffic: average
Driving challenge: a few good curves, but more views than thrills
Purty mouth: definitely better not have one
Locals: you ain't from around here
Ozarkbahn rating: hootenanny deluxe
Posts
Although I haven't seen it in years, the "Bell-Aire" used to have a circa ~'81 Ford LTD Stretch-Limo parked in front of it. I don't know if it belonged to the Motel, or a Patron, or was abandoned. It appeared in fairly decent shape (all things considered, especially the fact it was an '80s Ford LTD), might even have been driven-about on occasion.
ReplyDeleteIf you would like to learn more about the McDonald Territory incident of 1961, including details about the McDonald Territory Private Dispatch, see my page noting research leading up the planned commemoration of the 50th Anniversary of the secession attempt in 2011. Quick link: http://tinyurl.com/McD2011
ReplyDeleteKEYWORDS: McDonald Territory, McDonald County, 1961, secede, secession, Missouri, local post, local posts, private carriage of mail, 18 USC 1696, private dispatch, private despatch, stamps, philatelic, covers, propaganda, postal history of McDonald Territory
I am one of those grizzeld guys from the motel i rember when you took pics i am living in fl now i ran belair motel for 3 yrs thanks mike mobilesales2011@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteI own a little less than 2 acres in Lanagan. My wife and I and 3 kids lived there when we were just getting started. When we had the opportunity to return to Ohio and a much more financially rewarding life, I didn't have the heart to sell it. That was over 30yrs ago! Someday I hope to give it to one of my children for them to start out even though the house is gone. This is a beautifull area, sort of a "Mayberry RFD". If you haven't been there you are missing out on one of God's finest creations! P.S. the children now number 8!
ReplyDelete