Driven: Arkansas 21

Spring in the Ozarks is high time to get outdoors and hit the road. If you're plotting a path of escape, Arkansas Scenic Highway 21 is a great way to experience warming days and greening views.

[Arkansas 21 on Google Maps]

Starting South from US 412, AR-21 plods along farmland beside the Kings River, then ascends onto high ground Southeast of Kingston. Here the highway takes on new severity as it steeply descends into the Boxley Valley along the Buffalo River. The area is among the sharpest, most beautiful terrain in the Ozarks. Lost Valley State Park, the Ponca Wilderness Area, and a range of superb roads flow from AR-21 at this point.



Bounded on either side by rocky ridge lines, AR-21 levels briefly and tracks the Buffalo River for a few miles. The flat terrain affords the opportunity rubberneck exposed bluffs and the odd elk before the road regains intensity.



Arkansas 21 hits it stride South of Boxley Valley. It twists back into the landscape, then eases into a fast, open stretches through deeply wooded hills. The 35-mile drive that follows is designated the Ozark Highlands Scenic Byway, and it doesn't disappoint. The pavement straightens at times, but it changes direction regularly and rides through gorgeous land in near-isolation. Find an off-peak time for tourists, and the road is yours to enjoy at your pace.



On a Wednesday in March, I didn't meet another car but once every 10 minutes. It's a common story in this part of the Ozarks, much like Arkansas 16, reviewed earlier. No surprise that AR-16 and AR-21 are contiguous for a few miles, and split again at Fallsville. AR-21 remains excellent through Salus and Ozone, throwing in bends at intervals until the last thrusts of the Ozarks give way to the Arkansas River Valley.



AR-21's main sell is that it puts the full panorama of the Ozarks is within easy reach. It's all there: hiking, camping, canoeing, shooting, wildlife-spotting, scenery-gazing, and even more driving. AR-16 and the infamous AR-123 both link to AR-21, and the Pig Trail and Scenic 7 run parallel through the mountains on either side. Just as importantly, the roadside is minimally populated and lightly developed, with few chain stores. For example, you might lunch at the Ozone Burger Barn, fuel up ironically at the Chat-N-Scat, and get killer repairs at Murder's Auto Service in Clarksville if you play too hard. Wherever the wanderlust takes you, AR-21 is a fine place to start.

Traffic: varies by time of year
Driving challenge: decent, nothing wild, set your pace
Purty mouth: squeal if you like a pleasant drive
Ozarkbahn rating: Ozarks for all